I asked friend and collector advisor C'Q Gottlieb of Gottlieb & Co. (@C'Q_TheWatchGuy) to jump on with me and discuss the Spring 2025 Geneva watch auctions, the evolution of watch events, and the contrasting experiences offered by different auction houses. We look at the impact of auction results on the market, the rise of independent watchmakers, and the importance of collecting knowledge. Our discussion also touches on the balance between investment and passion in watch collecting, emphasizing the need for a deeper connection to the pieces being acquired. In this conversation, we highlight significant sales and the evolving landscape of watch collecting - discussing the impressive performance of independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and the challenges faced by established brands like Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey. We reflect on the vintage Rolex market, particularly the allure of mil subs, and anticipates future auction trends as the market stabilizes.
Takeaways
The Geneva watch auctions showcased a variety of lots, highlighting the return to more unique pieces at auction.
Intimate watch events are becoming rare, with larger gatherings often losing the personal touch.
Auction houses like Phillips create a theatrical experience that enhances the bidding process.
The market for independent watchmakers is growing, with collectors becoming more educated about their offerings.
Knowledge about collecting specific brands is crucial for making informed purchases.
The passion behind independent watchmaking is evident in the personal connections formed with collectors.
Investment should not be the primary motivation for purchasing luxury watches.
The landscape of watch collecting is changing, with a focus on personal enjoyment over financial gain.
Understanding the history and craftsmanship of watches adds value to the collecting experience.
The current market dynamics require collectors to be more strategic in their purchases. The auction results for independent watchmakers are promising, indicating a growing interest.
Constantine Chaikin's pieces are gaining significant support from collectors.
Richard Mille's market presence is softening, with lower auction results than expected.
Grubel Forsey is returning to its roots, focusing on traditional craftsmanship.
The vintage Rolex market remains strong, particularly for mil subs, despite its risks.
Market sentiment is shifting, with collectors becoming more cautious in their spending.
The secondary market for luxury watches is crucial for brand success.
The excitement around thematic auctions is evident, but results can vary widely.
Future auctions will be a key indicator of market health as we move into summer.
The watch industry is returning to a more realistic market after a period of inflated prices.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to the Geneva Watch Auctions
03:09 The Evolution of Watch Events
06:01 Auction Houses: A Tale of Two Experiences
08:55 The Impact of Auction Results on the Market
11:50 The Rise of Independent Watchmakers
14:57 The Importance of Collecting Knowledge
17:49 The Passion Behind Independent Watchmaking
20:54 Investment vs. Passion in Watch Collecting
27:57 Auction Highlights: A New Era for Watch Collecting
30:10 The Rise of Independent Watchmakers
32:41 Market Sentiment: A Shift in Values
34:44 Richard Mille: The Changing Landscape
39:31 Greubel Forsey: Balancing Tradition and Innovation
42:47 Vintage Rolex: The Allure of Mil Subs
48:59 Looking Ahead: Future Auctions and Market Trends
Thanks for listening this week. Stay tuned for more auctions updates and breakdowns as we work our way through spring auction season.
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