This week on Forward Momentum, I caught up with my good friend and recurring guest C’Q The Watch Guy to unpack the state of the watch industry—from auction house trends to independent watches at auction. We covered a lot of ground: the resurgence of yellow gold, the rise of quiet product launches, the importance of collector experience, and the ongoing discussion around pricing.
Auctions continue to set the tone for market values, sometimes inflating expectations, but also shining a light on standout pieces. Meanwhile, independent brands are earning real respect among educated collectors who value design and craftsmanship over just the name on the dial.
We also talk about Jean-Claude Biver’s continued influence, what’s happening with brands like Urban Jürgensen and Moser, Greubel Forsey’s quiet launches, and what these shifts mean for both new and seasoned collectors.
If you’re navigating the watch industry—as a buyer, seller, or curious observer—I think this conversation will offer a lot of takeaways and insights to think about over the long summer break.
Key Takeaways:
Independent watchmakers are gaining momentum, and collectors are paying attention to originality and craftsmanship over legacy names.
Watch pricing is creeping higher, prompting collectors to weigh long-term value and resale potential more carefully.
Auction houses like Phillips are shaping the narrative and driving enthusiasm—but also pushing prices sky-high.
Too many SKUs and colorways are diluting product lines. Strategic restraint may win out.
The buying experience matters. It’s not just about the watch—it’s how it’s delivered, who presents it, and what story it tells.
Yellow gold is making a comeback, and brands should take note.
Quiet product drops are outperforming overhyped launches. Subtlety is back in style.
Jean-Claude Biver’s impact on the industry continues to ripple outward.
The U.S. market remains strong despite economic headwinds—especially for rare or emotional pieces.
The collector base is evolving: smarter, more diverse, and more experience-driven.
Chapters:
00:00 – Auction Season Recap and What’s Coming Next
05:58 – Independent Watchmakers and the Pricing Puzzle
12:04 – Moser’s New Drops and the SKU Overload
17:48 – Inside the Auction Scene: Monaco Legends to Phillips
31:42 – New Brands, Old Problems
38:47 – What Collectors Really Want Right Now
48:56 – Can the Watch Industry Build True Community?
55:51 – What Stood Out at Phillips
01:02:18 – Rarity, Importance, and Value at Auction
01:07:37 – The Rise of Female Collectors
01:15:09 – Frustrations with Auction Houses
01:23:08 – Final Takeaways and Where We Go From Here
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