I wrote back in January’s Where is Collecting Going in 2025? that:
“Simplicity, elegance, and restraint are making a comeback. Timeless appeal is a term in the zeitgeist, we are in an era of timeless fashion, and that trend seems to be inspiring all things luxury. I find myself gravitating toward classic and elegant strap watches, often of the two or three hand variety, that exude sophistication without drawing undue attention.”
At that same time, I also sat down to write a guide on how to collect. I was feeling like too many people are chasing hype - and over the last 5 years, there has been a lot of hype to chase. I am guilty of it, too. But I wasn’t sure how to help collectors and newcomers understand the dynamics of the market, and of collecting itself. We often get so caught up that we forget to take a breath, look around, and enjoy the watch on our wrist.
There is no ultimate collection, it’s a living, breathing, evolving thing just like our tastes.
I wanted to remind myself that collecting is not a life-sentence. It’s a hobby, not a personality trait. And in 2025 the watch world is louder than ever: more brands, more noise, more marketing. Colleting, as it’s currently portrayed, has become transactional.
This isn’t that.
How To Collect
Maybe don’t.
You ask your watch connected friend how to.
But now in 2025 collecting has changed. HODINKEE is now a holding of WoS Group. Revolution is now working harder than ever to be a collaborative retailer. Retailers are interested in making markets. The media only cares what Zuck is wearing or buying. I don't give a fuck. Perezcope is single handedly bringing down the auction houses.
Today, to be a collector is to love watches. To be a collector is to explore, to study, to read, and to think deeply about the watches which resonate with you. It's a time to be your own research assistant, to go deep down, rabbit holes, to explore this complex world more deeply. It is time to escape the big brands and their fear driven marketing campaigns that make you feel as though your latest refusal to acquire their newest watch will leave you missing out or leave you lacking. This whole thing doesn't matter. We are majoring in the minors of irrelevance. We are talking about analog mechanical devices in the age of AI. Forget the big brands. Dive deep into research Get technical. Find watchmakers and ask then questions. Therein lies the point.
To collect is not to be beleaguered by big brands, it is to embark on a beautiful, soul-searching discovery of self. There is only one person to whom your watches and your entire collection is responsible. It is not the internet. It is not your Instagram following. It is you. You are responsible for your own horological happiness.
Don’t chase the hype.
Buy what you love.
Love it for you.
Do your own research. The journey, the hunt, if you will, is the actual reward, not the watch.
If it isn’t for you, sell it.
One watch is a complete collection. Read that again.
To collect in 2025 you will need research. You will need help. Expect to verify every source. Interrogate the motives. Part with cash only when fully satisfied. Enjoy the hunt - the dopamine wears off quickly.
If you collect expect to lose money. Anything else is a gift.
Remember that your collection is someone else's dream collection. Not every watch needs your brain space.
Watches & Wonders is a commercial event. NOT A COLLECTOR EVENT. Expect to be blindsided by the awfulness of one brand, and the kindness of another. Expect to be surprised, but don’t expect to be on time.
Go to Geneva. Visit the Patek Museum, the M.A.D. Gallery, watch in the windows of Akrivia. Have a fondue. But don't, for whatever reason become lost in the wilderness of mirrors.
END
That’s it for this week. If this guide resonated with you, subscribe now to get more insights on independent watchmaking, collector mindset, auctions, and the real stories behind the market.
Know someone caught in the hype cycle? Forward this to them — or share it with a friend who’s just starting their collecting journey. It might be the perspective they need.
Thanks for being here — and for supporting a community that believes the best stories in watchmaking aren’t the loudest, but the most honest.